Do you remember the children’s story “Stone Soup”?
Based on an old French folktale, it has been passed down in several versions, but the idea is always the same: A lone traveler, or three soldiers or perhaps three monks come to a village, where no one wants to feed them. So they put a stone in a big pot, fill the pot with water and tell the villagers that they are making stone soup.
All it needs is a garnish, they say. One villager adds a couple of carrots. Another contributes a potato. Another has a chicken he can part with, and so on. The travelers remove the stone, and everyone in the village enjoys a big pot of delicious soup.
The moral of the story is that good things happen when you share what you have with others. But that wasn’t what I took away from the story. What I learned from it, as a child, was how to make soup.
Every time I cook it, I can’t help but think about those travelers tricking the greedy villagers.
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As it happens, winter is the best time of the year for making soup. It warms you from the inside out, and nothing makes your house smell better and more homey than a big pot of soup simmering slowly on the stove.
For this story, I dove deep into my files, emerging with recipes I have been making since at least 2002, and one of them probably a few years before that. They are among my favorite soups.
Two are so good because of the magic of double-strength stock. You make regular-strength stock, of course, by simmering bones (or meat) and certain vegetables in water. Double-strength stock is what you get when you take that stock and simmer meat in that. With double-strength stock, you get a soup that is heartier, richer and more velvety.
For my first soup using double-strength stock, a chicken soup, I simmered the meat in stock I bought at the store. It would be even better, of course, to simmer it in homemade stock, but that was more effort than even I wanted to make. And the result was just as spectacular, or nearly, as it would have been if I had made the first stock myself.
The recipe comes from J.M. Hirsch, the longtime food editor at Associated Press who is now at Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street. At the time, 2007, Hirsch was looking for ways to shorten the time it takes to make chicken soup and still yield delicious results.
Using store-bought broth was one of the shortcuts he used, and so were cooking boneless thighs instead of bone-in, dredging the chicken through flour instead of creating a roux, adding potatoes as a way to help thicken the soup, and thickening it further by cooking noodles in the soup instead of a separate pot.
It takes less than an hour to make this dish, and it is amazing.
My own version of beef soup, which I am calling Beef Stone Soup, makes both the regular-strength stock and the double-strength at the same time.
That is, I put roasted beef bones in a stock pot with water, and I add cut-up chunks of marinated beef and the usual vegetables — carrots, celery, potatoes, onions and tomatoes. Both the bones and the meat combine to make an extra-hearty broth, which I fortify with a little reduced red wine and a couple of unexpected spices: cloves and cinnamon.
I love the heady combination of cloves and cinnamon with beef, especially when mixed with tomatoes. I used canned tomatoes with this recipe because it is winter, but also because you don’t need the quick brightness of fresh tomatoes in a soup that simmers for an hour and a half. The light acidic edge that would come from fresh tomatoes is instead replaced by a finishing splash of vinegar.
My original recipe calls for a roux to thicken the soup, but this time I decided to skip the calories and instead use cornstarch. The soup is so blissfully satisfying that no one will ever complain.
The easiest soup to make, Roasted Acorn Squash and Apple Cider Soup, comes from Dale Reitzer, who is one of the top chefs in Richmond, Virginia. When dealing with a great chef, simple is often best.
All you do is split open a couple of acorn squash and drizzle them with honey and dots of butter. Then you cook them in a roasting pan with equal amounts of vegetable stock and apple cider. Puree it all together (except the squash skins) and you have a wholesome and fresh-tasting soup that cannot be improved.
Except it can. Reitzer mixes together cinnamon and crème fraiche (I used sour cream) and divides it among the bowls. The mild tang of the dairy plays beautifully against the earthy squash and the sharpness of the cider, while the hint of cinnamon makes it just right for the winter.
The last soup is the most elegant of them all: Celery Root Soup with Smoked Turkey. How elegant is it? Let’s just say the dish, which comes from a restaurant at the storied Culinary Institute of America, is actually supposed to be made with smoked pheasant.
But I’m out of smoked pheasant at the moment, as one sometimes is, so instead I decided to use smoked turkey. But all my store had was massive amounts of turkey that was surprisingly expensive. So I used smoked chicken legs instead.
If you can’t find smoked chicken, use turkey instead, or even smoked ham. Or, you know, you could always smoke a pheasant.
The elegance really comes from the main ingredient, celery root, which is also known as celeriac. It is an unusually ugly vegetable, even for a root, but it has the most sublime, subtle flavor. It tastes like a mild form of celery, like celery without the sharp astringency.
As good as cream of celery soup is, cream of celery root soup is that much better — and it doesn’t even need all that much cream. The celery root is almost smooth and rich enough by itself, when it is simmered with chicken stock and onions and, OK, a lot of butter.
It is simply magnificent. But it can be made even better with a little smoked chicken. Or turkey. Or pheasant.
Wonderful soups for all seasons: 28 recipes
RECIPE: Gordon Ramsay’s Broccoli Soup
Gordon Ramsay’s Broccoli soup, Thursday, Jan. 2, 2020. Photo by Hillary Levin
1 large or 2 medium broccoli clusters, as fresh as possible
Goat cheese, optional but recommended
About 30 walnuts, optional
About 3 tablespoons olive oil
1. Boil enough water in a large stock pot to cover the broccoli. Add 1 tablespoon of salt or more to the water. Add broccoli and boil rapidly until you can pierce it with a knife with little or no effort.
2. Remove the broccoli to a blender with a slotted spoon or tongs, but do not discard the water. Add enough of the water to the blender to fill it halfway. Add a pinch or more of salt. Pulse the blender several times to break up the broccoli and then purée for several seconds until smooth. Taste and season with black pepper and more salt, if necessary.
3. If using the goat cheese, dip your knife into the still-hot water (or use the boiling water while the broccoli is cooking) to help you make smooth, even cuts. Cut 2 slices of the cheese for each bowl, dipping your knife in the water each time. Place 5 walnuts in the bottom of a shallow bowl and place 2 slices of goat cheese on top of them. Pour soup into the shallow bowl, drizzle with olive oil and serve.
Per serving: 246 calories; 22g fat; 6g saturated fat; 13mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 6g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 2g fiber; 535mg sodium; 79mg calcium
Mohinga
Mohinga on Wednesday, Oct. 1, 2014. Photo by Cristina Fletes-Boutte, [email protected]
10 ounces catfish, trout or firm white-fleshed fish
3 stalks lemongrass, divided
¾ teaspoon turmeric, divided
3 whole dried chiles, soaked in hot water
4 ounces young banana stem, sliced, or 12 small shallots, peeled and sliced thin
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 pound vermicelli rice noodles or wheat noodles, cooked
5 hard boiled eggs, peeled and quartered
2 handfuls fresh cilantro, chopped
Note: The soup paste, steps 1 through 3, can be made in advance and frozen for up to 1 month.
1. Place the fish in a large pan, add 2 cups of the water (or enough to cover the fish). Cut off the stem and leaf ends of 1 stalk of the lemongrass and remove a couple of the tougher outer layers. Use a heavy knife or side of a skillet to mash the stalk; add it to the pot along with ¼ teaspoon of the turmeric. Bring to a boil and simmer 6 to 10 minutes, until the fish is just cooked. Remove the fish from the pan and when cool enough to handle, peel the skin and flake the flesh, discarding any bones. Drain the fish stock through a sieve and reserve for the soup.
2. Cut off the stem and leaf ends of the remaining 2 stalks of the lemongrass and remove a couple of the tougher outer layers. Take the lemongrass, along with the onion, garlic, ginger and chiles, and process it to a paste in a food processor, pound it to a paste with a mortar and pestle, or chop it all as finely as you can.
3. Heat the oil in a small pan over medium heat and add the onion paste. Cook 15 to 20 minutes until the paste is soft and caramelized. Add the shrimp paste and mash it with a wooden spoon until it is incorporated, then mix in the paprika and remaining ½ teaspoon of turmeric. Cook for 1 minute until fragrant, then add the flaked fish. Cover and cook 10 to 15 minutes, allowing all the flavors from the onion paste to infuse the fish.
4. Put the raw rice in a small skillet over medium heat and cook until golden brown, stirring and tossing frequently to keep from burning. Grind the rice into a powder in a spice grinder, food processor or mortar and pestle. Place the rice powder, along with the soup paste (defrosted if you have frozen it), 2 cups of the reserved fish stock and 6 cups of water in a large pot. Use 8 cups of water if you don’t have the reserved fish stock. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly to make sure the rice powder does not clump.
5. Add the banana stem or shallots and simmer 20 to 30 minutes until they are tender. The soup should thicken; if not, increase the simmer to a mild boil. Add the fish sauce and black pepper and taste for seasoning.
6. To serve, place a handful of noodles in a bowl and ladle over the soup. Let the guests garnish as they like with limes, eggs, chopped cilantro, more fish sauce and crushed red pepper.
Per serving: 595 calories; 19g fat; 3g saturated fat; 26mg cholesterol; 21g protein; 88g carbohydrate; 6g sugar; 6g fiber; 770g sodium; 40mg calcium.
Hungarian Mushroom Soup
Hungarian Mushroom Soup was a hit in the 70’s as photographed in the Post-Dispatch studio on Wednesday, July 20, 2016. Photo by J.B. Forbes, [email protected]
4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter, divided
12 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced
1 to 2 teaspoons dried dill
2 cups stock or water, divided
1 tablespoon tamari or soy sauce
1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet. Add onions, and sauté over medium heat for about 5 minutes. Add mushrooms, salt, dill, ½ cup of the stock or water, tamari and paprika. Cover and simmer for 15 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a large saucepan. Whisk in flour and cook, whisking constantly, for a few minutes. Add the milk and cook, stirring frequently, over medium-low heat for 10 minutes or until thick.
3. Stir the mushroom mixture and remaining 1½ cups stock or water into the milk mixture. Cover and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes.
4. Just before serving, add salt and pepper to taste, lemon juice, sour cream and, if desired, extra dill. Serve hot, topped with freshly minced parsley.
Per serving: 273 calories; 19g fat; 11g saturated fat; 51mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 22g carbohydrate; 9g sugar; 3g fiber; 151mg sodium; 1212mg calcium. Recipe from “Moosewood Cookbook,” by Mollie Katzen, 1977
F.A.B.I.S. (Fresh and Best in Season) Soup
F.A.B.I.S. (Finest and Best in Season) Soup made with carrots prepared as a tribute to the Galloping Gourmet photographed on Tuesday, Jan. 14, 2014. Photo By David Carson, [email protected]
2 cups chopped yellow onion
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1½ pounds sweet potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
1½ pounds carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
1 tablespoon herbes de Provence
2½ cups low-sodium vegetable stock, see note
1 cup plain soy milk, see note
Chopped parsley, for garnish
¼ cup fat-free half-and-half, see note
Note: This version makes a particularly healthful soup. If you’d like a less healthful version, use regular vegetable stock and whole milk. If using whole milk, the half-and-half is not necessary.
1. Heat a large saucepan on medium heat. Add oil. Add onions and sauté 10 minutes or until turning brown.
2. Add garlic and sauté 1 minute. Stir in the sweet potatoes, carrots, herbes de Provence and salt. Sauté 10 minutes.
3. Pour in stock and bring to a boil. Cover and cook at a slow boil 30 minutes.
4. Remove from heat, add soy milk or milk, and purée in a blender. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Garnish with parsley and serve half-and-half on the side if you are using it.
Per serving: 175 calories; 3g fat; 0.5g saturated fat; 0.5mg cholesterol; 4g protein; 34g carbohydrate; 14g sugar; 6g fiber; 570mg sodium; 140mg calcium.
RECIPE: Roasted Red Pepper Soup With Seared Scallops
Roasted Red Pepper Soup with Seared Scallops on Wednesday, Jan. 25, 2017, in St. Louis. Photo by J.B. Forbes, [email protected]
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, finely chopped
¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper
½ cup fresh orange juice
¼ teaspoon grated orange zest
2 tablespoons chopped cilantro
1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Put the peppers on a cookie sheet and bake 45 minutes or until the skins are black, turning occasionally. Place in a paper bag or allow to cool slightly and wrap individually in plastic wrap. When they’re cool enough to handle, remove and discard the skins, stems, cores and seeds. Finely dice 2 of the peppers.
2. In a large saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Add the garlic, onion, cumin and crushed red pepper and cook over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened, about 10 minutes. Add the whole roasted peppers and the chicken broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the orange juice, orange zest and cilantro.
3. In a blender, puree the soup in batches. Return the soup to the saucepan and season with salt and pepper; keep hot.
4. In a medium skillet, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil until shimmering. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Add the scallops to the skillet and cook over high heat until richly browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn the scallops and cook on the other side for 1 minute. Ladle the soup into bowls, garnish with the scallops and diced pepper, and serve.
Per serving: 119 calories; 7g fat; 1g saturated fat; 3mg cholesterol; 4g protein; 10g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 3g fiber; 655mg sodium; 24mg calcium
Summer Fruit Soup
Summer Fruit Soup, a cold soup for a hot summer, photographed in the Post-Dispatch kitchen on Thursday, July 3, 2014. Photo by Christian Gooden, [email protected]
1 tablespoon minced ginger
3 cups chopped strawberries, divided
2 cups chopped pineapple, divided
1½ cups chopped mango, divided
¼ cup fresh orange juice
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1. Sauté the ginger in a medium pot over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 2 minutes (no oil is necessary). Add 2 cups strawberries, 1 cup pineapple, ¾ cup mango and the lemon, lime and orange peels; cook for another 2 minutes. Add water, sugar and fruit juices and bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Simmer for 5 minutes and remove from heat.
2. Allow mixture to cool slightly and then transfer in batches to a blender or food processor. Purée and strain into a large bowl. Add remaining 1 cup chopped strawberries, 1 cup chopped pineapple, ¾ cup chopped mango and blueberries. Stir to combine, cover and refrigerate until well chilled. Serve with mint sprigs for garnish.
Per serving: 220 calories; no fat; no saturated fat; no cholesterol; 1g protein; 55g carbohydrate; 50g sugar; 3g fiber; 6g sodium; 25mg calcium.
Recipe by Emeril Lagasse, via Food Network
Avocado-Cucumber Soup With Shrimp
Avocado-Cucumber Soup with Shrimp. Photo illustration by Huy Mach, [email protected]
1 English cucumber, peeled and cut into ¼-inch cubes
2 avocados, pitted and peeled
½ cup low-fat plain yogurt
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 minced small jalapeño chile (seeds and ribs removed for less heat), optional
1/3 cup sliced green onions
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
Coarse salt and ground pepper
12 medium shrimp (about 6 ounces), peeled and deveined
1. In a blender, combine half the cucumber and 1 avocado with the yogurt, lime juice, jalapeño, green onion, 1 tablespoon cilantro, 1 cup ice water, 1½ teaspoons salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Purée until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl.
2. Cut remaining avocado into ¼-inch cubes. Stir avocado and remaining cucumber into soup. Thin with ½ to 1 cup ice water, as desired. Season again with salt and pepper. Chill about 1 hour.
3. In a large skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Cook shrimp, turning once, until opaque throughout, 2 to 3 minutes. Ladle soup into bowls, garnish with shrimp and remaining tablespoon cilantro.
Per serving: 240 calories; 17g fat; 3g saturated fat; 70mg cholesterol; 12g protein; 14g carbohydrate; 4g sugar; 8g fiber; 335g sodium; 115mg calcium.
Recipe from Everyday Food.
Pumpkin Soup
Savory pumpkin soup, Oct. 9, 2014 photo by Hillary Levin, [email protected]
2 (2-pound) pie pumpkins or 3 cups canned purée
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1/8 teaspoon (2 pinches) cayenne pepper, optional
3 cups vegetable stock or chicken stock
Crème fraîche, optional
1. If using canned pumpkin, begin with step No. 2. If using fresh pumpkin, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Slice off tops of pie pumpkins and cut pumpkins into quarters; remove seeds and stringy bits. Place pumpkin quarters on an ungreased baking sheet and roast 30 to 35 minutes until soft. When cool enough to touch, remove and discard the skins (they will come off easily). Set pumpkin aside.
2. Put oil in a large pot over medium-high heat, add onions and sauté until softened, 3 to 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute. Add brown sugar, paprika, optional cayenne and nutmeg and stir 30 seconds to 1 minute until well mixed and fragrant. Stir in pumpkin and add vegetable stock.
3. Bring to a simmer and cook 20 minutes. Add coconut milk and mix thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste. Purée in a blender or use an immersion blender. Serve hot, topped with a dollop of crème fraîche or a sprinkling of nutmeg, if desired.
Per serving: 241 calories; 13g fat; 7g saturated fat; 5mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 28g carbohydrate; 14g sugar; 8g fiber; 271mg sodium; 55mg calcium.
RECIPE: Hearty Shellfish Soup
Hearty Shellfish soup, Thursday, Jan. 2, 2020. Photo by Hillary Levin
½ pound shrimp with the shells on, thawed if frozen
1 large red potato, cut in ½-inch dice
2 ribs celery, thinly sliced
1 (14.5-ounce) can fire-roasted tomatoes
1 cup bay scallops or langostinos, thawed if frozen
8 clams, thawed if frozen
1. Peel the shrimp and place shells in a large pot along with the chicken stock. Heat to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. Strain and reserve the stock; discard the shells. Meanwhile, chop the shrimp into small pieces and set aside.
2. In the same pot, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring frequently, until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, 30 seconds to 1 minute.
3. Return the reserved stock to the pot and add the potato, carrots, celery, bay leaf, wine and tomatoes. Simmer until the vegetables are soft and a knife or fork easily pierces the cubes of potato. Add the chopped shrimp, scallops or langostinos, and clams. Cook until the shrimp are pink, the scallops are hot all the way through and the clam shells have opened, about 2 minutes. Remove the bay leaf and the garlic, if you can find it, before serving.
Per serving (based on 4): 347 calories; 7g fat; 3g saturated fat; 132mg cholesterol; 33g protein; 36g carbohydrate; 10g sugar; 5g fiber; 1,138mg sodium; 112mg calcium
Lentil Soup
Lentil soup. photo by Hillary Levin, [email protected]
1 to 1½ teaspoons ground coriander
1¾ cups split red lentils
Bunch of celery leaves, chopped, or 1 rib celery, sliced
1½ to 2 large onions, sliced
2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 to 1½ pita breads to make croutons, optional
1 lemon, sliced into wedges, for serving, optional
1. Heat oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and cook until softened. Add the garlic, cumin, coriander and cayenne pepper, and stir.
2. Add the lentils, celery leaves and carrot, pour in the stock, and simmer 30 to 45 minutes until the lentils have largely disintegrated. Add salt and pepper, and water if the soup needs thickening; it should be thin, like light cream. Stir in the lemon juice.
3. For the garnish, fry the onions in the oil, first covered over low heat, stirring occasionally, then uncovered over medium and high heat, stirring often, until very brown and almost crisp.
4. Split and open the pita breads and toast in the oven or in a toaster oven, until they are crisp and lightly browned. Break them into small pieces to make croutons.
5. Serve the soup very hot. Garnish each serving with a tablespoon of fried onions and pass the lemon wedges and croutons, if you like, for people to help themselves.
Per serving (based on 8): 343 calories; 13g fat; 2g saturated fat; 7mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 41g carbohydrate; 6g sugar; 6g fiber; 358mg sodium; 48mg calcium.
Adapted from “The New Book of Middle Eastern Food,” by Claudia Roden
Mom’s Cabbage Soup
Mom’s Cabbage Soup. photo by Hillary Levin, [email protected]
1 large onion, sliced thin
½ small head cabbage, sliced thin
12 whole allspice berries
2 (14½-ounce) cans stewed tomatoes
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground allspice
1. Trim the fat from the ribs. In a large pot or Dutch oven, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add ribs and onions, season with salt and pepper, and cook until the beef is browned on all sides and the onions are translucent, about 8 minutes. Pour out the fat.
2. Add water, cabbage, allspice berries and cloves. Bring to a boil, then lower the temperature and simmer 30 minutes, skimming foam off the top when necessary.
3. Break up tomatoes with your hands or in a blender. Add tomatoes, brown sugar, vinegar, pepper and ground allspice. Bring to a boil, lower temperature and simmer until meat is completely cooked and has pulled away at least ½ inch from the edge of the bone, about 30 minutes. Taste and correct for salt and pepper. If the broth is too weak, continue simmering until the flavors are more concentrated.
Per serving: 188 calories; 7g fat; 2g saturated fat; 20mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 22g carbohydrate; 16g sugar; 3g fiber; 312mg sodium; 73mg calcium.
Onion-Mushroom Soup
Low calorie dishes – Onion-mushroom soup. Photo by Huy Mach, [email protected]
2 large white onions, sliced thin
2 large red onions, sliced thin
8 ounces button mushrooms, sliced
8 ounces cremini mushrooms (baby portobellos), sliced
4 sprigs fresh thyme or ¼ teaspoon dried
8 cups vegetable or chicken stock
¼ cup dry sherry or white wine
Apple cider vinegar, if needed
1. Melt butter in a Dutch oven or large pot over medium-low heat. Add white and red onions, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until onions begin to turn brown. This could take from 1 to 2 hours, depending on your stove’s temperature.
2. Remove onions with a slotted spoon and add mushroom slices and thyme. Cook until mushrooms are tender.
3. Return onions to the pot, along with stock and sherry. Raise heat and bring to a simmer. Taste, and add salt and pepper if needed. If soup is too sweet for your taste, add vinegar, 2 tablespoons at a time, until it is as sweet and sour as you like.
Per serving: 124 calories; 6g fat; 3g saturated fat; 15mg cholesterol; 5g protein; 12g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 1g fiber; 234mg sodium; 22mg calcium.
(Relatively) Complex Cream of Asparagus Soup
Cream of Asparagus Soup on Thursday, March 12, 2015. Photo by Cristina Fletes-Boutte, [email protected]
Yield: 4 (1-cup) servings
1 tablespoon olive oil or butter
3 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock, divided
1. Trim a couple of inches from the bottom of the asparagus. Cut asparagus into 1½-inch pieces.
2. In a pot, heat oil or butter over medium-high, and when hot add onion and shallots. Sauté until translucent, about 3 to 5 minutes. Raise heat, add the wine and cook until it is almost dry. Add 1 cup of the stock and cook until it is almost dry. Add the cream and cook for several minutes until it is reduced by one quarter. Remove from the heat.
3. In a separate pot, heat the remaining 2 cups of stock until boiling. Add the asparagus and simmer until the asparagus pieces are done (you can insert a fork or knife into one without resistance). Add the lemon zest and 1½ cups of the cream base; you will have some cream base left over.
4. Purée in a blender or food processor. Strain through a fine sieve to remove any fibers and season with salt and white pepper. The leftover cream base can be refrigerated or frozen for later use.
Per serving: 464 calories; 39g fat; 22g saturated fat; 129mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 16g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 3g fiber; 309mg sodium; 98mg calcium.
Cold Corn Vichyssoise
Cold Corn Vichyssoise, a cold soup for a hot summer, photographed in the Post-Dispatch kitchen on Thursday, July 3, 2014. Photo by Christian Gooden, [email protected]
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 medium onion, sliced (about 1¾ cups)
8 ounces potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
4 large ears corn, husked and kernels cut off (3½ cups)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or tarragon
1. Heat the butter and oil in a large saucepan. Add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes. Mix in the potatoes, corn kernels, salt and water and bring to a boil, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and boil gently for 20 minutes.
2. Use an immersion blender, food processor or blender to puree. For a soup with a smoother, finer texture, push it through a fine sieve set over a bowl. Stir in the half-and-half and chives or tarragon. Refrigerate until chilled before serving.
Per serving: 330 calories; 19g fat; 9g saturated fat; 40mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 38g carbohydrate; 9g sugar; 4g fiber; 645g sodium; 120mg calcium.
Recipe from “Essential Pepin,” by Jacques Pepin
Bean Soup
Bean Soup on Wednesday, March 23, 2016. Antiques courtesy of, and available for purchase, at Elder’s Ltd., 2124 Cherokee Street in St. Louis. Photo by Cristina M. Fletes, [email protected]
2 cups dried black beans (about 1 pound) or 3 (15-ounce) cans
2 tablespoons chopped onion
2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sherry, optional
7 tablespoons sour cream, optional
1. If using dried beans, soak them in water overnight.
2. Drain beans and rinse in cold water. Add to a large pot with the onion, celery, cloves, salt and sufficient stock to cover the other ingredients by an inch or 2. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are soft or for 1 hour if using canned beans.
3. Purée in batches in a blender or with an immersion blender (or, if you want to be true to the 1930s, push the beans through a strainer). Add sufficient stock or water to make the consistency of thick cream. Mash the egg yolk with pepper and mustard, and stir into the soup mixture.
4. Mash the flour into the butter with a fork and cook over medium heat in a small skillet or pot until golden brown. Thin with a little stock and stir into the soup. Cook for 5 minutes; if too thick, add water. Add 1 teaspoon sherry or 1 tablespoon sour cream to each bowl just before serving, if desired.
Per serving: 304 calories; 6g fat; 2g saturated fat; 39mg cholesterol; 19g protein; 43g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 12g fiber; 1,064mg sodium; 53mg calcium.
Adapted from “New York World’s Fair Cook Book,” by Crosby Gaige, 1939
Beet and Carrot Soup
Beet and Carrot Soup photographed on Wednesday, June 22, 2016, in St. Louis. Photo by Chris Lee, [email protected]
2 beets, trimmed and scrubbed
2 tablespoons olive oil, plus more as needed
3½ cups peeled and chopped carrots
1 medium yellow onion, chopped
1 medium leek, chopped (white and light green parts)
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Rub the beets with a little olive oil and salt and wrap in aluminum foil. Roast until tender when pierced with a thin knife, 45 minutes to 1 hour. Open the foil and let rest until cool enough to handle.
2. Meanwhile, heat 2 tablespoons oil in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add the carrots and cook until soft and light golden brown, 7 to 9 minutes.
3. Add the onions and leeks, cover and sweat until they are translucent, 3 to 5 minutes more. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the broth and thyme.
4. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer about 20 minutes. Remove the thyme.
5. Peel and coarsely chop the beets. Stir them into the soup. Working in batches if necessary, transfer the soup to a blender and purée until smooth. Or blend in the pot with an immersion blender until smooth.
6. Serve hot or cold, garnished with crumbled feta and a sprinkling of cilantro.
Per serving: 109 calories; 5g fat; 1g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 2g protein; 15g carbohydrate; 7g sugar; 3g fiber; 624mg sodium; 48mg calcium.
Adapted from a recipe from “Vegetarian Cooking,” by the Culinary Institute of America
Farmers Market Gazpacho
Farmers Market Gazpacho, a cold soup for a hot summer, photographed in the Post-Dispatch kitchen on Thursday, July 3, 2014. Photo by Christian Gooden, [email protected]
1 large cucumber, peeled, seeded and diced
1 medium sweet onion, diced
1 green or red pepper, diced
½ bulb fennel, sliced thin, optional
2 tablespoons fresh basil or 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, chopped, optional
½ avocado, sliced, for garnish, optional
Combine all ingredients except the optional avocado in a large bowl and refrigerate at least 2 hours. When serving, float optional avocado slices on top of each bowl.
Per serving: 50 calories; 2g fat; 0.5g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 2g protein; 6g carbohydrate; 3g sugar; 1g fiber; 135mg sodium; 15mg calcium.
Recipe by Mary Anne Pikrone
Cream of Celeriac Soup
Cream of Celeriac Soup, photographed on Friday, Oct. 21, 2016, is featured in the Post-Dispatch food section. Photo by Christian Gooden, [email protected]
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
4 cups chicken stock, divided
1 large or 2 small celeriac roots
Salt and white pepper, to taste
1. Put oil in a large pot over medium-high heat and sauté onion and shallots until clear, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add white wine and reduce until almost dry. Add 2 cups of the chicken stock and reduce until almost dry. Add the cream and simmer slowly until reduced by about 1/5, approximately 10 minutes. Strain and reserve the liquid.
2. Thoroughly peel the celeriac roots, cutting off any fibrous parts you can’t get with the peeler. Cut into ½-inch cubes. Add the cubes and the remaining 2 cups of chicken stock to the reserved cream base and simmer until the celeriac is tender, about 15 to 20 minutes.
3. In batches, pour into a blender and purée. Taste for salt and add white pepper, if needed.
Per serving: 428 calories; 36g fat; 21g saturated fat; 105mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 16g carbohydrate; 7g sugar; 2g fiber; 256mg sodium; 98mg calcium.
Ginger and Carrot Soup
Ginger Carrot Soup, a cold soup for a hot summer, photographed in the Post-Dispatch kitchen on Thursday, July 3, 2014. Photo by Christian Gooden, [email protected]
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
Juice of 1 lime, plus lime wedges for garnish, optional
1 cup plain yogurt (not nonfat)
1. Warm oil in a pot over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until softened, 6 to 8 minutes. Add ginger and garlic; sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.
2. Raise heat to medium-high; stir in carrots. Pour broth into pot, cover and bring to a simmer. Remove cover, reduce heat to medium to maintain a simmer and cook until carrots are very tender, about 25 minutes. Remove soup from heat and let cool slightly.
3. Working in batches, purée soup in a blender until smooth. Transfer to a large bowl, cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 2 hours.
4. Just before serving, stir in lime juice and yogurt. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve chilled, garnished with lime wedges if desired.
Per serving: 120 calories; 5g fat; 1g saturated fat; 5mg cholesterol; 3g protein; 16g carbohydrate; 9g sugar; 4g fiber; 430g sodium; 90mg calcium.
Flemish Onion Soup With Cheese
Flemish onion soup with cheese. photo by Hillary Levin, [email protected]
4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter
2 pounds yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 large baking potatoes, peeled and cubed
Salt and white pepper, to taste
Ground nutmeg, preferably fresh, to taste
3 tablespoons minced chives, optional
¾ cup grated Gruyère cheese
1. Melt the butter in a heavy soup pot over low heat. Add the onions and increase the heat to medium. Cook stirring occasionally, until translucent, 10 minutes. Let the onions brown slightly for a more pronounced flavor.
2. Add the potatoes, water and bay leaf. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat. Simmer, covered, until the potatoes are soft, 20 to 25 minutes.
3. Discard the bay leaf and let the soup cool slightly. Press the soup through a food mill or purée in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth.
4. Return the purée to the pot and gradually stir in the milk. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg.
5. Reheat the soup gently before serving. Do not let it boil. Serve hot, in warmed soup plates. If desired, sprinkle with chives and float croutons in each soup plate. Place the grated cheese in a bowl and pass at the table.
Per serving: 223 calories; 14g fat; 8g saturated fat; 39mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 19g carbohydrate; 3g sugar; 2g fiber; 154mg sodium; 208mg calcium.
Recipe from “Everybody Eats Well in Belgium Cookbook,” by Ruth Van Waerebeek, with Maria Robbins
Curried Cream of Cauliflower and Apple Soup
Curried cream of cauliflower and apple soup. photo by Hillary Levin, [email protected]
For the curried cream of cauliflower
1½ tablespoons sweet (unsalted) butter
2 teaspoons Madras curry powder
½ teaspoon saffron threads or 2 pinches saffron powder
1 cup Golden Delicious apple (or other apple), peeled, split, cored and sliced
4 cups cauliflower (about 1 small to medium head), broken into florets
1 tablespoon chives, minced
For the curried apple dice
1 cup Golden Delicious apple (or other apple), peeled, split, cored, in ¼-inch dice
1 teaspoon Madras curry powder
¼ teaspoon saffron threads or 1 pinch saffron powder
1. For the curried cream of cauliflower: Warm the chicken stock over medium heat. Melt the butter in a heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the onions, curry powder and saffron and sweat for 2 minutes, stirring often. Add the sliced apple and sweat for 5 more minutes, stirring often. Add the cauliflower and warm chicken stock and bring to a boil.
2. Boil until the cauliflower is tender when pierced with a knife, about 20 minutes. Add the cream and cook for 3 more minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Transfer the soup in batches to a blender or food processor and purée at high speed until very smooth. Keep warm until ready to serve, or refrigerate when cool and reheat just before serving.
3. For the curried apple dice: Place the apple dice with 1 tablespoon of water in a pan over medium heat. Add the curry powder and saffron, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well, cover with a lid, and cook for 3 minutes. Strain and keep warm on the side.
Per serving (based on 6): 273 calories; 20g fat; 12g saturated fat; 58mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 19g carbohydrate; 10g sugar; 3g fiber; 263mg sodium; 62mg calcium.
Recipe from “Cooking With Daniel Boulud,” by Daniel Boulud
Oyster Mushroom Soup with Walnuts in Red Wine
Oyster Mushroom Soup with Walnuts in Red Wine on Wednesday, May 17, 2017, in St. Louis. Photo by J.B. Forbes, [email protected]
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 cup leeks, white part only, thinly sliced (about 2 small leeks)
4 cups oyster mushrooms, cleaned, stems discarded, sliced (about 1½ pounds)
1 cup potatoes, peeled, in ¼-inch dice
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1. Begin heating the chicken stock. Melt the butter in another large pot over medium heat. Add the leeks, thyme and 1 bay leaf and sweat (cook without browning) until soft, approximately 4 to 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring frequently, for 10 to 15 minutes or until all moisture has evaporated.
2. Add the warm chicken stock, potatoes and salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Add the cream and simmer for 5 minutes more. Discard the thyme and bay leaf and purée the soup in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth. Pour the blended soup back into the pot and keep warm until needed.
3. In a small saucepan over high heat, combine the red wine, walnuts, the remaining bay leaf, peppercorns, clove and sugar and bring to a boil. Simmer until the liquid is reduced to 1 tablespoon. Remove the walnuts with a slotted spoon and set aside to cool. Strain the reduced red wine and add it to the soup. Slice the walnuts when cool and set aside.
4. Serve garnished with the sliced walnuts and minced chives.
Per serving: 506 calories; 34g fat; 16g saturated fat; 89mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 24g carbohydrate; 6g sugar; 4g fiber; 1,379mg sodium; 108mg calcium
Recipe from Cooking with “Daniel Boulud,” by Daniel Boulud
Creamy Red Lentil Soup
Creamy red Lentil soup is one of the foods from Turkey we are highlighting in the St. Louis Post-Dispatch Food section. Photo by J.B. Forbes, [email protected]
4 tablespoons butter, divided, plus more for croutons
6½ cups chicken or meat stock
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1. Pick over the lentils, wash, drain and reserve.
2. Sauté the onions in a saucepan in 2 tablespoons of the butter until golden. Add the stock and bring to a boil. Stir in the lentils cover and simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes, until they are very soft. Pass the lentils through a sieve, pressing against them, and reserve liquid, discarding the residue.
3. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy pan, add the flour and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes or so, until the flour turns deep golden. Stirring continuously with one hand, pour in the lentil liquid. Simmer the soup, stirring frequently, over low heat for 3 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk the egg yolk with the milk. Season with salt.
4. Whisk some hot soup into the egg mixture and then pour it all back into the soup while stirring. Bring it to just under boiling. Meanwhile, fry the bread cubes in hot butter until golden and crispy. Serve the soup hot with croutons.
Per serving (based on 4): 423 calories; 20g fat; 11g saturated fat; 127mg cholesterol; 19g protein; 44g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 12g fiber; 1467mg sodium; 164mg calcium
Nutrition analysis used whole milk and unsalted butter in calculation Adapted from “Classical Turkish Cooking,” by Ayla Algar
RECIPE: Chilled Avocado and Yogurt Soup with Melon
Chilled Avocado and Yogurt Soup with Melons is featured on Wednesday, May 16, 2018, in the food kitchen of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch. Photo by J.B. Forbes, [email protected]
2 avocados, pitted and peeled
2 tablespoons lemon juice
½ ripe cantaloupe, scooped with a melon baller
1/3 cup fresh basil leaves, to garnish
2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted, to garnish
1. Place the avocado, onion, stock, yogurt, lemon zest, lemon juice and a few pinches of salt and pepper into a blender and process until the mixture is smooth. Refrigerate until chilled.
2. Season the soup with additional salt and pepper, if needed; then ladle into bowls. Garnish each serving with a few melon balls, fresh basil and some toasted pine nuts.
Per serving: 235 calories; 16g fat; 3g saturated fat; 8mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 17g carbohydrate; 10g sugar; 6g fiber; 263mg sodium; 92mg calcium
Nutrition analysis used Greek plain whole milk yogurt.
Garlicky Bean Soup (Zuppa di Fagioli)
This Garlicky Bean Soup is a hearty, warming favorite from “The Italian Table,” by Elizabeth Minchilli. Photo by Elizabeth Michilli.
Garlicky Bean Soup (Zuppa di Fagioli)
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
8 garlic cloves, chopped, plus 1 (optional) for rubbing the bread
4 cups cooked dried white beans (recipe follows), with 3 cups cooking water from the beans
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Rustic Italian-style bread (optional)
½ cup chopped fresh Italian flat-leaf parsley
Extra-virgin olive oil, for drizzling (preferably your best variety)
1. Pour the ½ cup olive oil into a large pot and add the garlic. Heat gently for a few minutes over low heat until the garlic begins to soften, but do not let it brown. Add the beans and give them a good stir. Add some black pepper and the reserved bean broth and bring to a simmer over low heat. Cook for about 20 minutes, covered.
2. Remove from the heat. Using an immersion blender, blend the soup just a little. Taste and adjust for salt and pepper.
3. If you are using bread at the bottom of the bowls (which is highly recommended), toast 5 or 6 (½-inch-thick) slices of the bread, rub them with a peeled clove of garlic, and place them in each bowl before proceeding.
4. To serve, ladle the hot soup into bowls, sprinkle them with parsley, and drizzle some olive oil on top.
Per serving (based on 5): 431 calories; 28g fat; 4g saturated fat; no cholesterol; 10g protein; 38g carbohydrate; 4g sugar; 9g fiber; 415mg sodium; 99mg calcium
Recipe from “The Italian Table: Creating Festive Meals for Family and Friends,” by Elizabeth Minchilli
RECIPE: Chicken Tortilla Soup
Chicken Tortilla soup, Thursday, Jan. 2, 2020. Photo by Hillary Levin
2½ pounds bone-in chicken thighs or legs
1 pound beef bones or a cut with a lot of bone in it, such as short ribs, optional
1 medium onion, quartered, skin left on
1 head garlic, halved across the equator, skin left on
½ cup vegetable oil or more as needed
6 corn tortillas, divided
2 tablespoons canned chipotle chiles in adobo, or to taste
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro, divided
2 avocados, pitted, peeled and cubed
4 to 8 ounces plain melting cheese such as mozzarella (not fresh), Oaxaca or Jack, shredded or cubed
Lime wedges for serving, optional
1. Put the chicken, beef bones if using, 3 of the onion quarters and the garlic in a large pot. Add water just to cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat so the liquid bubbles gently. Cook, skimming the foam off the surface every now and then, until the chicken is very tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
2. Meanwhile, put the vegetable oil in a skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, fry 2 of the tortillas (1 at a time, if necessary), turning once, until crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Cut the remaining 4 tortilla into thin strips, add them to the skillet and fry, stirring to separate them, until crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt while they’re still warm.
3. When the chicken is tender, transfer it to a plate or cutting board with tongs or a slotted spoon. When it’s cool enough to handle, shred the meat with your fingers, discarding the bones and skin. If you used beef, discard it or save for another use.
4. While the chicken is cooling, strain the stock and discard the solids. Peel the remaining quarter of the onion and put it in a blender with the chipotle, ¼ cup of the cilantro and a sprinkle of salt. Crumble in the 2 whole fried tortillas and add enough stock to fill the blender a little more than halfway. Purée until the mixture is as smooth as possible.
5. Pour the purée and remaining stock back into the pot and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat so the mixture bubbles gently and cook for 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the shredded chicken, taste and add more salt if necessary. Divide the avocados, the cheese and the remaining ¼ cup cilantro among 6 bowls. Ladle the soup into the bowls and garnish with the fried tortilla strips and lime wedges, if desired.
Per serving: 496 calories; 26g fat; 11g saturated fat; 194mg cholesterol; 45g protein; 20g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 5g fiber; 698mg sodium; 204mg calcium
Recipe by Mark Bittman from the New York Times
RECIPE: Carrot and Red Pepper Soup
Carrot and Red Pepper soup, Thursday, Jan. 2, 2020. Photo by Hillary Levin
6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter, divided
6 2/3 cups water, divided
1¼ pounds carrots, cut into ½-inch dice
½ large yellow onion, cut into ¼-inch dice
¼ teaspoon black pepper, divided
1½ teaspoons lemon juice
3 medium red bell peppers, halved, seeded and diced
A few drops of red wine vinegar, if needed
1. For the carrot soup: Melt 4 tablespoons of the butter in a 6-quart soup pot. Add 1 cup of the water, carrots and onion. Bring to a low simmer, cover, and stew for 30 minutes or until vegetables are very soft and the water has almost entirely evaporated.
2. Add 5 more cups of the water and bring to a boil. In a blender, purée the soup, in batches, for 3 minutes each. Season with 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1/8 teaspoon of the pepper and the lemon juice. The soup should have a velvety consistency and be slightly thicker than heavy cream.
3. Meanwhile, make the red pepper soup: Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter in a 3-quart saucepan. Add the peppers, the remaining 2/3 cup of water, the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and the remaining 1/8 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, for 20 minutes or until the peppers are very soft and some of the water has evaporated.
4. In the clean blender, purée the peppers with ½ cup of their cooking water (there should be more than that left in the pan) and pass the purée through a medium-fine sieve to catch any bits of skin. If the pepper soup lacks depth, correct it with a few drops of red wine vinegar. If necessary, thin the red pepper soup with a little of the remaining water so that its consistency is similar to that of the carrot soup.
5. Serve the soup in warm bowls, pouring 6 ounces of the carrot soup into each. Stir 2 tablespoons of the red pepper soup into the center. Optional additions are chopped chervil leaves and creme fraiche thinned with a little warm water to approximate heavy cream. Draw the cream over the surface with the tines of a fork.
Per serving: 94 calories; 7g fat; 4g saturated fat; 18mg cholesterol; 1g protein; 7g carbohydrate; 4g sugar; 2g fiber; 268mg sodium; 23mg calcium
Recipe from “Chez Panisse Cooking,” by Paul Bertolli and Alice Waters
RECIPE: Parisian Onion Soup
Parisian Onion soup, Thursday, Jan. 2, 2020. Photo by Hillary Levin
1¼ pounds yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
½ cup dry white wine (or beer or a half-and-half mixture of port wine and water)
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
4 slices crusty artisanal bread, trimmed as needed to fit your bowls
1½ cups freshly grated cheese, such as Comté or Gruyère
Nutmeg, preferably freshly grated
1. In a heavy-bottomed pot, heat the butter and oil over medium heat. Add the onions and salt, stir to combine, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are deeply caramelized, 30 to 40 minutes. If you find they are sticking to the bottom of the pot, add 1 tablespoon water and scrape off any stuck bits.
2. Stir in the flour, Add the wine and stock, scrape the bottom of the pot, and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook 15 minutes. Stir in the vinegar, then taste and adjust the seasoning. (This soup base can be prepared and refrigerated 1 day in advance. Reheat before continuing.)
3. Preheat the broiler. Divide the soup among 4 heatproof bowls and put them on a rimmed baking sheet. Top each bowl with a slice of bread and sprinkle each with 6 tablespoons of cheese. Put under the broiler, watching closely, until the cheese is golden and bubbling, 4 to 5 minutes. Sprinkle with black pepper and nutmeg. Bring to the table on heatproof plates.
Per serving: 510 calories; 21g fat; 11g saturated fat; 52mg cholesterol; 26g protein; 54g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 4g fiber; 1,776mg sodium; 488mg calcium
Recipe from “Tasting Paris,” by Clotilde Dusoulier