Neman: The truth about egg cartons, and other egg secrets | Food and cooking

1 medium onion, peeled and diced

3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

½ to 1 chile pepper (or to taste), stemmed, sliced in half and minced; seeds removed for less heat if desired

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 teaspoon paprika, smoked or sweet

1 teaspoon caraway seeds, crushed

1 teaspoon cumin seeds, crushed, or ¾ teaspoon ground cumin

2 pounds ripe tomatoes, cored and diced, or 2 (14-ounce) cans of diced or crushed tomatoes

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 teaspoon red wine vinegar or cider vinegar

1 cup loosely packed greens such as radish greens, watercress, kale, Swiss chard or spinach, coarsely chopped

4 ounces (about 1 cup) feta cheese, cut in generous, bite-size cubes

1. In a wide skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and the garlic and cook until soft and wilted, about 5 minutes. Add the chile pepper (if using), salt, pepper, paprika, caraway seeds, cumin and turmeric. Cook for 1 minute, stirring constantly, to release their fragrance.

2. Add the fresh or canned tomatoes, tomato paste, honey and vinegar, reduce the heat to medium and cook 12 to 15 minutes until the sauce has somewhat thickened. Stir in the chopped greens.

3. Turn off the heat and press the cubes of feta into the tomato sauce. With the back of a spoon, make 4 to 6 indentations in the sauce. Crack an egg into each indentation. Turn the heat back on to bring the sauce to a gentle simmer, and cook for about 10 minutes, taking some of the tomato sauce and basting the egg whites from time to time. Cover and cook 3 to 5 minutes, until the eggs are cooked to your liking.

4. Serve with lots of crusty bread for scraping up the sauce.

Per serving (based on 4): 326 calories; 21g fat; 8g saturated fat; 304mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 20g carbohydrate; 12g sugar; 5g fiber; 1,345mg sodium; 229mg calcium.

Adapted by David Lebovitz from recipes by Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi in “Jerusalem” and Adam D. Roberts in “Secrets of the Best Chefs”

9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) butter, divided

¾ cup grated cheddar cheese

1. Slice the leeks in half lengthwise and clean, rinsing between each layer. Cut into thin slices. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter and sauté leeks until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside.

2. Slice English muffins in half, and lightly toast. Meanwhile, fill a 12-inch skillet (or two 10-inch skillets) with water 2 to 3 inches deep. Add vinegar and bring to a gentle simmer.

3. Melt remaining 8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter in a heavy saucepan. Add flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the half-and-half. Cook, stirring occasionally, until it is the consistency of gravy. Stir in leeks and add salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.

4. Heat Canadian bacon on medium-high heat until hot on both sides, about 1 minute (you can use the skillet you used for the leeks). Place 1 slice of bacon on each English muffin half.

5. Gently crack eggs into simmering water. Simmer 3 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, lightly dry on paper towels and place 1 egg on top of each slice of bacon. Add sauce and top with grated cheese and fresh chopped parsley.

Per serving: 550 calories; 37g fat; 22g saturated fat; 290mg cholesterol; 23g protein; 31g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 1g fiber; 945mg sodium; 316mg calcium

Adapted from “Four Sisters Inns Cookbook.” Recipe by Cynthia Bowman

½ pound bacon or bulk breakfast sausage, or ¾ cup cubed ham

½ pound sliced fresh mushrooms

1/3 pound (5 ounces) shredded cheddar cheese

½ teaspoon dry mustard or 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

¼ pound asparagus, bottom few inches removed

Note: Recipe can be easily doubled. Cook in a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

1. Place bread in a buttered 8-by-8-inch baking dish. If using bacon, cut into 1-inch strips and fry until crisp. For sausage, fry, crumble and drain. For ham, cook in a nonstick pan, turning, until browned and heated through.

2. Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add mushrooms, season with salt, and cook until tender. Drain off excess liquid.

3. In a large bowl, combine eggs, milk, cheese, mustard, reserved meat, cooked mushrooms and asparagus. Pour this mixture over the bread, but do not mix. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.

4. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Bake 45 to 60 minutes or until heated through. Let cool slightly, then cut into serving pieces. Serve warm.

Per serving (based on 5): 400 calories; 25g fat; 12g saturated fat; 241mg cholesterol; 25g protein; 20g carbohydrate; 6g sugar; 1g fiber; 666mg sodium; 385mg calcium.

Recipe adapted from the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel.

1 small green pepper, diced

1 small red pepper, diced

3 ounces cream cheese, room temperature or whipped (sold in a tub), divided

2 (10-inch) flour tortillas

1 cup shredded cheddar cheese, divided

Note: This recipe calls for making half of the pinwheels first and then the other half later. That is easier than trying to make it all at the same time. The diced ingredients should be about the same size.

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a skillet over medium heat. Add the ham and sauté until slightly crispy, or at least starting to brown. Add the peppers and onion, and season with salt and pepper. Sauté until tender, about 5 minutes (covering the pan will help). Remove to a bowl and set aside.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs and half-and-half, and season with salt and pepper. Melt ½ tablespoon of the remaining butter in a 10-inch skillet (you can use the same skillet) over medium heat. Pour in half of the egg mixture and wait until the bottom part begins to set. Use a spatula to push part of the egg toward the middle, and let some of the runny egg fill the spot you just created. Do this all the way around the pan.

3. Cover the pan and cook until the egg is set. Remove to a plate to cool, browned side down. Meanwhile, smear half of the cream cheese over 1 tortilla. Place the cooked egg on top of the tortilla. If there is any runny part on top, blot it with a paper towel. Cover with ½ cup cheese, then scatter half of the pepper-ham mixture on top; do not add too much. Carefully roll up the tortilla to form a log, wrap tightly in a large sheet of plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled.

4. Repeat the process with the remaining butter, the remaining egg mixture, the rest of the ham and vegetables and the remaining cream cheese, tortilla and shredded cheese. Wrap tightly and refrigerate.

5. To serve, unwrap the rolls and cut into slices about 1 inch to 1½ inches wide. Spear each slice with a toothpick to help hold it together.

Per serving (based on 16): 145 calories; 10g fat; 5g saturated fat; 115mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 7g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; no fiber; 310mg sodium; 80mg calcium.

2 tablespoons olive oil, divided

1. Cut the peeled potatoes in half lengthwise, then cut each half into crosswise slices about 1/8 inch thick (do not use a food processor). Chop the onions into ¼-inch pieces.

2. In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and cook, stirring occasionally (covering the pan with a lid will make this go quicker). After about 5 minutes, add the onions and green pepper and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes and peppers are tender, about 5 more minutes. Season heavily with salt; potatoes require a lot of salt. Remove from heat.

3. In a large mixing bowl, lightly beat eggs. Add the potato-onion mixture and stir until well-mixed.

4. Add the reamining 1 tablespoon of oil to a large skillet over medium heat and swirl to coat bottom of the pan. Add the egg-potato mixture and cook without stirring until the egg has set around the edges. Check, by lifting an edge, to see if the egg is beginning to brown on the bottom. When it starts to brown, place a large plate over the top of the pan, invert the pan and plate so that the omelet falls onto the plate, and then slide the omelet back into the pan, browned side up.

5. Cook until the egg is completely set, about 1 or 2 more minutes. Cut into wedges to serve. This goes especially well with hot sauce.

Per serving: 332 calories; 14g fat; 3g saturated fat; 279mg cholesterol; 13g protein; 38g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 3g fiber; 116mg sodium; 59mg calcium.

4 ounces smoked salmon, chopped

3 ounces (¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons) whole milk

4 ounces cream cheese, softened

1½ teaspoons capers, optional

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. In an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat, melt ½ tablespoon of the butter. Add onions and cook, stirring frequently, until soft, about 10 minutes. Stir in smoked salmon and cook a minute or 2 until it changes color. Set aside.

3. Pour the eggs and milk into a large bowl. Add cream cheese in marble-sized chunks, along with optional capers and enough salt and pepper for 8 eggs (if the salmon is salty, do not add more salt). Whisk until just mixed.

4. Add remaining 1 tablespoon butter to skillet and stir to coat the sides. It’s fine if some of the onions and salmon stick to the sides. Add egg mixture and place in oven. Bake until eggs are just set, 15 to 20 minutes.

Per serving: 279 calories; 22g fat; 11g saturated fat; 292mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 4g carbohydrate; 3g sugar; 0g fiber; 667mg sodium; 104mg calcium

Nutrition analysis used unsalted butter.

1 tablespoon peanut oil or other vegetable oil

1 (14½-ounce) can chopped tomatoes

1 teaspoon tamarind paste, 1-inch cube of tamarind block or 1 teaspoon lemon juice (see note)

1 teaspoon Indian chile powder or cayenne (see note)

1 teaspoon fish sauce, optional

Cucumber, sliced, for garnish

Note: If using a tamarind block, soak the cube overnight in ½ cup boiling water until it breaks down into a thick paste; remove the stones and fibrous bits. Indian chile powder, which is always spelled “chilli,” can be found in international stores; do not use Mexican chili powder, which is not the same thing. Both Indian chile powder and the suggested substitution of cayenne are very hot; use less, or even much less, if desired.

1. Cut off the stems of the cilantro and mince them, reserving the leaves for later. Dice the onions finely.

2. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat and add the minced cilantro stems and finely diced onions. Sauté until the onions become tender, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tamarind paste, optional curry leaves, paprika, turmeric, chile powder and fish sauce.

3. Simmer lightly for 2 hours, until the mixture reduces. Use a hand blender or potato masher to get rid of any lumps.

4. While the curry simmers, place the eggs in a saucepan and cover by an inch or 2 of water. Bring to a boil, lower the temperature to a hard simmer, and cook 4 minutes. Run the eggs under cold water to stop the cooking. Peel and slice in half; the yolks should be creamy, somewhere between hard-boiled and soft-boiled.

5. Add the egg halves to the simmering sauce and stir until coated. Serve immediately over hot rice. Sprinkle some of the reserved cilantro leaves on top and serve cucumbers and radishes as a garnish.

Per serving: 235 calories; 13g fat; 4g saturated fat; 370mg cholesterol; 14g protein; 14g carbohydrate; 7g sugar; 2.5g fiber; 370g sodium; 95mg calcium.

1¼ cups sliced mushrooms

¼ pound ham or prosciutto, slivered or diced

¾ teaspoon minced garlic

½ medium green pepper, cut into ¼-inch dice

½ pound asparagus, trimmed and cut into 1-inch lengths

1½ tablespoons minced fresh basil, or 1 teaspoon dried

¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

6 ounces cream cheese, room temperature

6 ounces mozzarella, shredded (about 1½ cups)

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1. In a large skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of the butter. Add the mushrooms, ham, garlic and green pepper. Sauté over medium heat until the vegetables are tender. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Blanch the asparagus in boiling salted water until crisp-tender. Drain well and set aside. Whisk together the eggs, basil, oregano, salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Cut the cream cheese in bits into the eggs.

2. Just before serving, heat the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter in the skillet. Add the egg mixture. Cook over medium heat while folding the mixture with a spatula to blend in the cream cheese. When the eggs are half set, add the warm vegetable-ham mixture, the mozzarella, Parmesan and warm asparagus. Continue to cook while gently folding in the cheese with the spatula. When the eggs are just done, serve at once.

Per serving: 465 calories; 37g fat; 20g saturated fat; 410mg cholesterol; 28g protein; 6g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 1g fiber; 600mg sodium; 350mg calcium.

Recipe from “The Frog Commissary Cookbook” by Steven Poses, Anne Clark and Becky Rolloer

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

Fruit jam, sauce or preserves

1. Beat egg yolks with sugar, a dash of salt and grated lemon rind. Beat egg whites to soft peaks and gently fold into yolk mixture.

2. Melt butter in a 9-inch skillet over medium heat, and add egg mixture. Cook slowly until bottom of omelet is golden brown. You may cover pan until top of omelet is thoroughly cooked or you may serve it with the top slightly runny, as with a regular French omelet. You may also turn it over if you want it browned on both sides. Spread with fruit sauce or preserves (apricot, strawberry or raspberry preserves are especially good with this). Fold in half and serve.

Per serving (based on 4): 110 calories; 6g fat; 3g saturated fat; 188mg cholesterol; 6g protein; 7g carbohydrate; 7g sugar; no fiber; 102mg sodium; 27mg calcium.

Adapted from “The German Cookbook” by Mimi Sheraton

6 ounces sharp or extra sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

1½ teaspoons Dijon mustard

3 ounces (¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons) whole milk

2 pieces white toast, cut into small cubes

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, cheese, mustard, milk, and enough salt and pepper for 8 eggs, until just mixed. Stir in cubes of white toast. Set aside for 3 minutes.

3. In an ovenproof skillet, melt butter, swirling around on all sides. Add egg mixture and place in oven. Bake until eggs are just set, 15 to 25 minutes.

Per serving: 383 calories; 28g fat; 14g saturated fat; 427mg cholesterol; 25g protein; 10g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; no fiber; 539mg sodium; 417mg calcium

Nutrition analysis used unsalted butter.

3 ounces Roquefort or other creamy blue cheese

1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Put on a pot of water to boil.

2. Season the heavy cream with nutmeg, salt and pepper.

3. Butter 6 individual ramekins and break an egg into each one, taking care not to break the yolk. Add a few walnut kernels and chunks of Roquefort cheese to each ramekin, then pour the cream to fill each ramekin.

4. Place the ramekins in a baking dish and place the dish in the oven near the front (do not close the door). Quickly add boiling water to the baking dish until it rises halfway up the side of the ramekins — be careful not to splash water into the ramekins. Close the oven door and bake until the eggs are as you like them, about 12 to 15 minutes.

Per serving: 527 calories; 51g fat; 24g saturated fat; 308mg cholesterol; 14g protein; 6g carbohydrate; 3g sugar; 1g fiber; 358mg sodium; 193mg calcium.

Adapted from “French Feasts,” by Stéphane Reynaud

¾ cup to 1 cup leftover Chinese or Indian food

½ cup leftover rice, optional

2 cups whole milk, half-and-half or light cream

1. Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Take leftover food out of the refrigerator to allow it to warm slightly while you prebake the crust.

2. Poke holes all over crust with a fork, or line crust with parchment paper or foil and fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake until lightly golden, 12 to 15 minutes. If using the pie weights or dried beans, remove the liner and the weights, and return crust to oven until bottom is dry, 3 to 5 more minutes (it may puff up, but it will go down again as it cools). Remove crust from oven and lower temperature to 350 degrees.

3. In a medium bowl, lightly beat eggs. Add milk or cream and whisk or stir until thoroughly mixed. Season lightly with salt and pepper (remember, Chinese and Indian food is often salty and spicy). Stir in leftover food, including optional rice. Pour into crust and bake until set and the center does not jiggle, about 30 to 40 minutes.

Per serving (based on 6): 389 calories; 9g fat; 3g saturated fat; 139mg cholesterol; 13g protein; 32g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 1g fiber; 413mg sodium; 180mg calcium

One cup of kung pao chicken was used in analysis.

½ potato, cut into ½ to ¾-inch cubes

¼ cup chopped green pepper

1½ teaspoons curry powder, divided

5 medium mushrooms, quartered

3 ounces (¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons) whole milk

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

2. In an ovenproof skillet, melt ½ tablespoon of the butter over medium-high heat. Add the potatoes and salt to taste (potatoes need a lot of salt), cover and cook, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes.

3. Add the the remaining 1 tablespoon butter, onions, carrots, green pepper, tomato and 1 teaspoon of the curry powder. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, an additional 5 minutes. Uncover, add mushrooms and zucchini, and sauté until all the vegetables are cooked through, about 5 minutes more.

4. Meanwhile, add eggs, milk, the remaining ½ teaspoon curry powder and enough salt and pepper for 8 eggs into a large bowl. Whisk together until just mixed. Pour into the skillet and place in oven. Bake until just set, about 20 minutes. Serve with sriracha, if desired.

Per serving:241 calories; 15g fat; 6g saturated fat; 386mg cholesterol; 15g protein; 12g carbohydrate; 5g sugar; 2g fiber; 170mg sodium; 106mg calcium

Nutrition analysis used unsalted butter.

6 large, thin slices of prosciutto

1/3 cup shredded mozzarella cheese

¼ cup packed baby spinach leaves, chopped

¼ cup roasted red peppers, chopped

Note: To make this recipe even more keto-friendly, instead of greasing the muffin tin with 1 tablespoon of butter, melt 2 tablespoons and brush the tin with it. It will pool in the bottom of each cup, but that is OK.

1. Position an oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400 degrees.

2. Grease the cups of a muffin tin with the 1 tablespoon of butter (or brush with 2 tablespoons of melted butter). Line each cup with a slice of prosciutto, folding and overlapping so that the entire surface of the cup is covered and no metal is peeking through. Divide the mozzarella evenly among the cups. Repeat with the Parmesan, spinach and roasted red peppers.

3. Whisk the eggs and cream in a large measuring cup or small pitcher; add some salt and a few grinds of pepper. Pour the egg mixture in each cup, making sure not to overfill.

4. Bake until the eggs are set and wobble only slightly, 10 to 12 minutes (the eggs will continue to cook after they come out). Let cool 5 minutes, then use a thin knife or offset spatula, if necessary, to loosen the prosciutto from the edges of each cup. Transfer to a plate for serving.

Per serving: 321 calories; 22g fat; 10g saturated fat; 426mg cholesterol; 28g protein; 4g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; 1g fiber; 1,779mg sodium; 272mg calcium

Recipe from the Food Network

1½ tablespoons soy sauce

2 black-tea bags or 2 teaspoons loose black tea

1. Puncture the wide end of the eggs with a pin to prevent cracking. Bring 6 cups of water to a boil, turn down the heat to maintain a slow simmer and lower the eggs into the water with a spoon. Simmer them about 5 minutes. Place the pot under a running cold faucet until the pot is full of cold water. Soak the eggs in the cold water for about 1 minute, then tap each of them lightly with the back of a spoon until they are covered with a network of fine cracks.

2. Put the eggs back in the pot and pour enough cold water over them to cover. Add the salt, soy sauce, star anise and tea leaves or bags, and bring to a slow boil over medium heat. Adjust the heat to maintain a very gentle simmering, then cover and simmer for 1½ to 2 hours. Remove eggs to a bowl.

3. Remove the tea bags and adjust the brine with soy sauce if necessary; it should be a little salty with a subtle aroma of star anise. If using loose tea, strain sauce through a sieve.

4. If you want to eat the eggs immediately, shell the amount you want and soak them in the sauce for at least 30 minutes. Then serve, cut in halves or quarters, wetting the yolk with the sauce.

5. If you are going to eat the eggs later, soak and then chill them in the sauce, shells still on. If you want them hot later, rewarm over slow heat until piping hot.

Per serving: 56 calories; 4g fat; 1g saturated fat; 141mg cholesterol; 5g protein; 1g carbohydrate; 1g sugar; no fiber; 1,342mg sodium; 24mg calcium

Note: The eggs won’t absorb the all the sodium in the brine.

Recipe from “The Key to Chinese Cooking” by Irene Kuo

¼ cup chopped pralines, optional, recipe follows

Note: This recipe can be cut in half, but be sure to use 1 whole egg.

1. Cut pieces of parchment paper to line the insides of 8 small ramekins (6-ounce ramekins are ideal). The paper should stick up at least 2 inches above the rim of each one, and the strips will need to be long enough to overlap by a couple of inches to keep them from falling out of the dishes.

2. In a large bowl, thoroughly beat together the egg and the yolks. Set aside.

3. In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stir the sugar into the water and keep stirring until the sugar dissolves. Simmer this liquid until it becomes a heavy syrup that will coat a spoon but do not allow it to turn color. The syrup should be a little thinner than corn syrup. Allow to cool slightly, then stir in the Grand Marnier.

4. Whisk the eggs again in a stand mixer using the whisk attachment on medium-high speed, and pour in the hot syrup. Continue whisking for several minutes until the mixture is room temperature.

5. In a separate bowl, whip the cream until it reaches stiff peaks. Gently fold the whipped cream into the yolk mixture until thoroughly combined. Pour this preparation by spoonfuls into the prepared ramekins; the top of the soufflés should be 1 inch or more above the rim of the ramekins, but below the top of the parchment paper.

6. Freeze at least 3 hours. Before serving, remove the parchment. Garnish each with a sprinkling of chopped pralines, if desired.

Per serving (with pralines): 296 calories; 17g fat; 9g saturated fat; 197mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 30g carbohydrate; 26g sugar; 1g fiber; 71mg sodium; 45mg calcium

Recipe by Olivier Berté, translated by Daniel Neman

½ cup roughly chopped or broken tortilla chips

1 tablespoon chopped red onion, optional

¼ avocado, chopped, optional

2 tablespoons shredded Mexican-style cheese, optional

Place eggs and butter in an unheated skillet. Turn heat to medium-high, and slowly stir. Cook until eggs are just a little wetter than you like them. Stir in tortilla chips and remove from heat; eggs will continue to cook off heat. Transfer to a platter and cover with optional toppings of your choice.

Per serving: 327 calories; 22g fat; 8g saturated fat; 386mg cholesterol; 16g protein; 15g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 3g fiber; 411mg sodium; 132mg calcium

1 pint grape tomatoes, halved

4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1. Preheat toaster oven to 350 degrees.

2. Add the oil to a 2-quart casserole (make sure it fits) and transfer to toaster oven for 5 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Stir in the spinach, tomatoes and scallions.

3. Remove casserole from oven and pour in egg mixture. Sprinkle feta over top. Bake until the frittata is browned around the edges and slightly puffed, and a knife inserted in the center comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes.

Per serving: 280 calories; 20g fat; 7g saturated fat; 392mg cholesterol; 17g protein; 8g carbohydrate; 3g sugar; 2g fiber; 637mg sodium; 203mg calcium.

Adapted from a recipe in Real Simple by Frank Mentesana.

3 large (or 4 small) mushrooms, sliced

2 asparagus spears, bottom few inches discarded and the rest cut into ¼-inch pieces

1. Melt butter in skillet over medium-high heat, and add onions. Cook until translucent, 3 to 5 minutes. Add mushrooms and asparagus, and cook until mushrooms lose their moisture, another 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, remove and keep warm.

2. Add more butter to skillet if needed. Season eggs with salt and pepper, add to pan and cook, pushing eggs to the middle with a spatula and turning and swirling the pan to fill the gaps until almost completely cooked. Add cheese to one half of the eggs and top that half with onion-mushroom-asparagus mixture. Fold the other half of the egg over that half and remove from heat.

3. Cut omelet in half and place each half inside half of the pita.

Per serving: 415 calories; 17g fat; 7g saturated fat; 387mg cholesterol; 22g protein; 48g carbohydrate; 8g sugar; 7g fiber; 642mg sodium; 96mg calcium

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 teaspoon peppercorns, see note

10 whole cloves, see note

2 dried whole chile peppers

12 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Note: Instead of using peppercorns, cloves, bay leaf and dried peppers, you can use 2 teaspoons of pickling spices.

1. Combine vinegar, water, sugar, salt, peppercorns, cloves, bay leaf and dried peppers (or pickling spices) in small saucepan. Add cooked beet for a beautiful magenta color, if desired. Bring to boil, stirring frequently, until sugar dissolves. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain liquid through sieve or cheesecloth, if desired.

2. Place eggs in a 1-quart jar with lid. Pour hot liquid over eggs. Cover jar with lid. Refrigerate for at least two days before using. Pickled eggs will keep for one month in the refrigerator.

Per serving: 88 calories; 5g fat; 2g saturated fat; 186mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 4g carbohydrate; 2g sugar; 1g fiber; 274mg sodium; 39mg calcium

¼ cup granulated sugar, plus more for sugaring ramekins

8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, up to 70% cacao, chopped

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ teaspoon instant espresso powder dissolved in ½ teaspoon water, optional

3 large eggs, separated, plus 1 additional egg white

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Vanilla custard sauce (recipe follows) or softly whipped cream, optional

Note: You will need 8 small soufflé dishes (ramekins), preferably 5½ to 6 ounces each, or you can use a 6-cup soufflé dish; the larger dish will take 32 to 38 minutes to cook until the soufflé is set and firm to the touch in the center.

1. Generously butter each soufflé dish, including the rims, dust them with granulated sugar and tap out the excess.

3. Pour 2 inches of water in the bottom of a double boiler and bring to a rolling boil. Off the heat, place the chocolate in the top of the double boiler. Turn the heat off and set the chocolate over the steaming water. Stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Leave over the warm water until needed.

4. Melt 1 tablespoon butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from the heat, add the flour and whisk well to remove any lumps. Return to the heat and cook 1 minute, whisking constantly. Remove the pan from the heat again and add the milk slowly, whisking constantly to remove any lumps.

5. Return the pan to the heat again and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Cook for 1 to 2 minutes, until thickened to the consistency of thin pudding. Remove from the heat and whisk in the vanilla. Whisk in the espresso powder, if using, and a pinch of salt. With a clean spatula, scrape the melted chocolate into a large bowl. Add the béchamel sauce (milk-flour mixture) and whisk to blend. Whisk in the egg yolks. Cover and keep warm while you whip the egg whites.

6. In the very clean bowl of a stand mixer, whip the 4 egg whites on medium speed until they form soft peaks. With the mixer running, rain in the ¼ cup granulated sugar and beat until stiff peaks form (you can also use a hand mixer and a medium bowl). With a spatula, gently stir ¼ of the egg whites into the chocolate béchamel sauce to lighten the mixture. Fold in the remaining whites just until there are no more white streaks.

7. Transfer the soufflé batter to a pastry bag. Pipe the batter into each soufflé dish, filling it to ¼ inch below the rim (you can also gently spoon the batter into each dish). Place the dishes on a baking sheet. At this point, the dishes can be covered in plastic wrap and refrigerated up to 24 hours before baking.

8. Bake for 14 to 18 minutes — soufflés made with higher percentage chocolate will bake more quickly — until the soufflés are set and firm to the touch in the center. Serve immediately, dusted with powdered sugar and accompanied by custard sauce or whipped cream, if desired.

Per serving: 450 calories; 24g fat; 14g saturated fat; 76mg cholesterol; 8g protein; 54g carbohydrate; 44g sugar; 5g fiber; 339mg sodium; 58mg calcium

Nutritional analysis does not include vanilla custard. Recipe from “The Art & Soul of Baking,” by Cindy Mushet

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